O. Sharov:

The spread of polychromic belt sets in East and Central Europe



In 1887-88 W. Grempler published assemblages with unique finds from Sackrau/Zakrzow in Silesia. Close elements of the decoration of these golden and silver objects - the plentiness of granulation and filigree and in some cases the use of stone and glass inlays - gave a basis for the spread of an inaccurate and generalizing term: objects decorated in Zarkzow style.

Among these finds characteristic - according to H.J. Eggers - for the horizon of princely graves C/2 - our attention was attracted by the details of a less splendid belt set from grave 2. This set includes the buckle itself with a rectangular frame decorated with a carnelian inlay, and one belt plate similarly decorated by an ovoid carnelian in the centre. The find of buckles of such type is unique for Central and Western Europe. This is the earliest such find for this region. In the same time in East Europe polychromic belt buckles with rectangular frame were spread widely enough. The most significant quality of them (8 pieces) was found in the territory of Bosporus and outside of it: one piece in stanica Timoshevskaia, one in Chersonessos/Sevastopol, one from the Lower Volga region/Abganerovo-II and one from Kalmykia/Kupzyn-Tolga.

The basis of the frames is made of bronze or silver and decorated on the upper part by gilded or gold foil on which the imitation of granulation, braided motifs, x-motifs, circles and stars was stamped. To main characteristic features of these buckles belong also single round, oval and rectangular inlays of semi-precious stones and glass in the centre of the buckle. A.K. Ambroz suggested that we have to agree either with the Danubian origin of these objects decorated with stamped foil and stone inlays, or the Northern German and Scandinavian one. At the latter regions in the end of the 3rd century similar decoration of fibulas was widely spread. He thought that such way of decoration of festive objects was the heritage of the general provincial Roman jewellery style of the 3rd century (Ambroz 1992. 9). It is possible that in the 3rd century such a polychromic style was spread in the Empire, but we can judge it only on the basis of the preserved depictions of the details of the costume on grave-stones and other art objects, if we make only morphological and stylistical analyses. The earliest depictions of the polychromic belts are known on the sculptures of the tetrachs in Venice and statues depicted in chlamys from Vienna and Ravenna. That is to say - according to G.Delbrueck ( they reflect the costume of the emperors of the end of the 3rd century - first half of the 4th century.

The earliest festive helmets of military officers from Berkasovo and Budapest were made exactly in the technique described above and belong to the age of Constantine and Licinius. Barbarian fibulas type Makeprang IX from Scandinavia are dated starting with the beginning of the 4th century and characterize on the first hand phase C/3. Prototypes of the Zakrzow type polychromic buckles with rectangular frame were found in the barrow graves of the Kuban region in the "Golden Cemetery" dated to the 2nd - beginning of the 3rd century, and also in the graves of Mcheta and Samtavro dated to the 2nd century, grave 2/1975 from Gorgippia dated to the first half of the 3rd century.

On the basis of the cases of the earlier appearance of such polychromic buckles in the Bosporus and Georgia, and also taking into consideration the map showing the spread of early polychromic buckles already from the 1st century we can assume that this detail of the costume from the very beginning belonged to the festive costume of the Iranian speaking nobles. So, we suggest that it is possible to speak about the fashion of polychromic belts only from the moment of appearance of different Iranian tribes known in the written sources as Aorsi, Siraci, Jazygi, Alani, Sarmati etc.

In the Roman Empire workshops began to make for festive occasions and rewards such belts and other polychromic objects en masse only from the end of the 3rd century and only then - starting from the Tetrarchy - the festive costume of the Roman officers became externally similar to the Emperor's costume differing only by using glass and cheap stone inlays instead of precious stones.